Indawgyi Lake

Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi Lake ( Part-I )

Can you all guess what might be the largest lake of South East Asia? It is the “Indawgyi Lake” in the Northern part of the Union of Myanmar. Shall we first study the satellite picture of this Inland water mass. The lake stretches for about (14) miles from North to South and (7) miles from East to West, with its deepest part about (60) feet.

It lies between (25˚: 6") to (25˚: 10") North latitude, and (96˚: 6") to (96˚: 15") East longitude, covering about (98) square miles. The watershed (or) the crown of complex chain of mountain system is continuous with the Eastern Himalaya and Tibetan plateau.

The physical features of its surroundings are characterized by high mountains, ravines, water courses, basins, and intricate network of deep valleys ---- etc. Because of this varied topography and climatic condition, various ecosystems with rich and unique biodiversity exist in this region. This area can the reached in about ½ day’s drive by car from Myitkyina, the capital of Kachin State. On the way, you will pass through a reserved teak forest yielding foreign exchange for the country.

In view of the importance of the Myanmar Forestry Sector in enhancing national socio-economic development, and ensuring ecological balance and environmental stability, the Myanmar Forest Policy has been formulated in a holistic and balanced manner, within the overall context of the environment and sustainable development taking full cognizance of the forestry principles, adopted at the United Nations Conference on Environment and Development in 1992. This policy defines:--- Protection; Sustainability; Basic Needs; Efficiency; Participation; and Public Awareness as Imperatives. This is the first view of the Indawgyi Lake, from an elevation of (1610) feet above sea-level. According to the investigation conducted in 1929, the lake is considered to be formed by tectonic action, and was once on extension of the Bay of Bengal during the Early Tertiaries (or) over (40 to 60) million years ago, and included in the central basin of Myanmar’s Geological setting.

The Indawgyi Lake is located in Mohnyin Township, in the south west part of Kachin State. It is not only the largest lake in South East Asia, but also the one and only TECTONIC Lake in Myanmar. According to the global scale wet-land type, Indawgyi belongs to “Fen-lake” type, with heavy peat accumulation containing moss and micro- fossils.

Let us now observe the lake fauna :--- for instance, this specie of fish known as “Doryichthys dunckeri” is actually on oceanic fauna, closely related to the sea-horse family. However, as the lake had been separated from the Bay of Bengal for millions of years, this and species like ---“ Indostomus paradoxes” and ȁulostomidae” of the oceanic fauna have been transformed by evolution, and physiologically adapted to fresh water. Now a little information on the peculiar flora found in the Indawgyi lake. This thorny lotus also called “ Euaryales ferox” (or) Fox nut Gorgon is indigenous only to the Kachin State. It’s a wonder how a near endemic specie from Kashmir has found its way to Indawgyi in Myanmar. Coming to the wing species of the lake, a large variety of migratory birds can be found from October to April forming the most important dimension of Biodiversity. As you see this big flock is made up of - - “ Greylag Goose” from Mongolia. - “2” little Cormorants from East Asia with the local Egret, and - “Common Pochards” from Mongolia and West past of Central Asia. More information on this interesting lake to follow in Part-II.

Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi Lake ( Part-II )

Indawgyi, the biggest lake in South East Asia, is regarded somewhat Holy (or) Sacred by the local inhabitants of Kachin State. To add to the serenity of the lake, a pagoda named: “Shwe Myintzu” had been built by Venerable Reverend “U Thaw Bitha”.

The first stake of the foundation was driven in February (1869) and the gradual build-up followed. Facing out wards at the ‘4’ cardinal points- North, South, East, West are ‘4’ Buddhas who attained enlightenment before Lord Gauttama. Besides richness in flora and fauna, Indawgyi has age-old cultural ethnic groups that provide another kind of richness that is, “Cultural Diversity”. These ethnic minorities (or) ecosystem people have developed cultural traditions and expressions, indigenous knowledge, and values that support sustainable lake resource management, which are distilled from centuries of interaction with the lake.

They also developed skills, how to manage such resources to maintain Biodiversity. For-instance, like fishing being prohibited within ‘1’ square mile around the pagoda. While tracing back the emergence of the pagoda, the unique relationship between the devoted Shan ethnic groups (or) “stake holders” of Kachin State who have been living there for centuries, and the existence of the lake and pagoda can be envisaged. Richness of Indawgyi’s Biodiversity and unique lake ecosystem, make a great contribution to Humanity.

Another reciprocal feature is that Indawgyi lake can provide enough quality food, water and economic security to the people of the region, together with conservation of traditional agro ecosystem and livestock, wealth, sustainability of the production system and environmental conservation.

In many ways, these ecosystem people behave as an integral part of the lake eco- system. Understanding the indigenous knowledge of mountain people in relation to lake Biodiversity, resource management is one of the key issues in the development of Indawgyi region, and the serve as “ Synbiotic Relationship”.

Another special event which takes place during the time of the yearly Pagoda festival in March, the low water season, is – the emergence of ‘2’ lime bars forming paths betweens the Pagoda and the shore-line. It may be mentioned that although this strange phenomena lies in the for North of Myanmar, yet it seems to attract tourists from far – off places (interview)

About ‘3’ miles north of “Shwe Myintzu”, there are still two more pagodas worth- while visiting namely “ Ngwe Myintzu” and “Moat Soe Ma” zaydees. They were begun in the year 1949, and can be seen on the west side of the lake on a hillock. Proceeding north, our yearly visitors like:- “Little Cormorants” or “Din Gyi” - in Myanmar, coming from Southern areas between Indonesia and Australia; - “Lesser-Whistling Ducks”or “Sit salee” from Central Asia can be seen. - “Cotton Pygmy goose” or “Kalarcut Bear” also from Central Asia. - “Northern Pintail” or “Bear Yit” from North Asia and - this white mantel of “Local Egrets” or “Byaing” will also capture your attention. More information on the winged species will follow in Part-3 ,4,5 and 6.

Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi Lake ( Part-III )

Myanmar’s Indawgyi, the largest lake in South East Asia, is eutropic in that, it is a fresh water ecosystem densely vegetated with aquatic flora such as :- Vallisnaria; Elodae; Spirogyar; Sargassum; Caulerpa; and many other algae.

We also learn that other the substratum of the lake is covered with odorous soft back rich clay and plant remains, and the depth of inundation varies from ‘3’ feet to ‘60’ feet. The watershed mountain ecosystem of Indawgyi is composed of “Kumon” Range, “Wa Baw” Range, and a series of middle yoma mountain ranges, which run from the range of “Hindu Kush Himalaya” and also continuous with Tibetan plateau in the North. The altitude of these water shed mountains also varies greatly from ( 500 ) to ( 3500 ) feet.

Indawgyi is also home to a tremendous diversity of fish; amphibians; aquatic plants; hydroplanktons; and you’ll be surprised to know that these aquarium fish are endemic to Myanmar’s Indawgyi lake only. The water shed mountain ranges and the lake provide important resource for biological diversity including varied rich and complex lives of sub tropical mountain forest, and some endemism of fish germ plasam. If you look closely you’ll see that this type of fish shows a peculiars luminosity length wise on its body.

Another feature that is common along the western shore of Indawgyi is a clump of luxuriant growing- “Barrantonia” plants or “Kyee Nee” in Myanmar. This semi-aquatic vegetation growing in abundance, forms rich shore line ecosystem, with thick algae and “Sylvenia” fern ground cover. They also play an important role in preventing shore erosion and encroachment and also this predominant habitat of “Kyee Ni” trees is being used as wintering, nesting and roosting sites by many kinds of birds. The climate here is under control by the north west monsoon and can be divided into “3” seasons:- The rainy reason from middle of May to October, and dry season from early March to May.

Indawgyi lake also harbours more than ( 200 ) species of migratory birds. These winter visitors come in around October, and stay on till about April. Here are “Tufted ducks” from North Asia known as “Mauk Twere Bear Myo” in Myanmar, and a mixture of other migratory birds like Pochards and ducks. The big lake is fed by about ( 30 ) large and small streams entering from various directions. The largest feeder streams are Namp Yin Kha” and Namp Tein” streams. The only outlet is the “Indaw Chaung” (or) “Chaung-Wa” stream at the North eastern part of the lake.

To reach “Chaung Wa” which is “32” miles from “Lonton”, you will have to take a boat to negotiate this meandering stream flowing through the Range Land and Reedbed.With the hope of finding more birds and unique features of this area, our MRTV team made it a point to visit this village “Chaung-Wa” meaning mouth of the stream.

It was quite clear who we left “Nyaung-Bin” village, but visibility become poor due to foggy conditions. However, in spite of the poor visibility, we were lucky to see the Internationally endangered- “Ferruginous Pochards”, coming from western part of central Asia; “Western Marsh Harrier” or “Daung-Zoon Oat-Su” from West Asia, “Purple Swamphens” (or) “Mare Nyo” and cute little “Black Winged Stilts” (or) ��ung-Lan Chey Dauk Nghet”. Altogether it was a memorable back-drop with “Cattle Egrets” (or) “Kywe Kyaung Byaing” mixed with other “3” types of Egrets, clearing insects from the back of buffaloes. And finally, after about ‘2’ hours we arrived at “Chaung-Wa” village which would be the beginning of our next study tour.

Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi Lake ( Part-IV )

Continuing Part 4, our team reached “Chaung-Wa”, about 2-hours from Indawgyi lake. We noticed that the water was muddy, compared to Indawgyi water. We also learned that the primary activities of the indigenous people around Indawgyi Lake are:- wet and dry rice cultivation and fishing.

The surrounding watershed is home to ‘3’ Shan ethnic groups namely: “Taing Lain”, “Taing Lyan”, and “Taing Kham Ti”. “Taing Lyan” is predominant in population, and they have established literature and culture.

These ecosystem people have a long history of preserving Biodiversity. They also have a reputation as skilled elephant mahouts and are experts in wild elephant sizing and domesticating. Please notice that the saddle is made out of a fibrous bark from a tree, belonging to the mango family “Anacardiacea”. It is known as “Na bear bin” in Myanmar. These saddles bring comfort to the elephants and its indigenous technology to make them had been handed down through generations.

Each of the agricultural village situated around the lake forms part of an ecosystem in this “Gene-Rich” region. Here, rice cultivation is important not only for their food security, but also as a primary activity in their way of life. Thus, 80% of the inhabitants are local farmers. The favourable ecological environment in this region, also encourages the high productivity of ‘5’ pitted cashews, Botanically termed as “Dracontomelon megefera” (or) “Ngar bauk thee” in Myanmar. This indigenous plant also belongs to the mango family- “Anarcadiacea”. Since the seeds (or) kernels of this near endemic plant yields a good amount of edible oil, it forms a good source for their consumption.

However, another oil yielding crop like mustard (or) “See Mon Nyin” is also being grown widely in Kachin state, which has achieved self sufficiency in rice, and is exporting surplus to other divisions.

From “Chaung-Wa” village, we moved further north the same day, along the meandering stream, bordered by luscious plantations on both sides. But just when we were all enjoying the wonderful scenery and zig-zag run, the stream became too narrow and shallow forcing us to back-trek to “Chaung-Wa”. It was disappointing not to have reached “Kamaing” further upstream as it was no longer accessible. Before we left “Chaung Wa” we could got a closer look at the “Large Cormorant”, known as “Din Gyi” in Myanmar, coming from eastern and southern part of Asia. Its beak is naturally curved and sharp, to enable it to catch fish easily. And, what we saw on our return are:- “Pied Harrier” (or) “Suun”; -Vented Myna” (or) “Taw Zayet”; Swamphens” (or) Mare Nyo” a migratory specie; flock of “Egrets” (or) “Byaing”; Marsh Harrier” (or) “Daung Suun” from West Asia and Winged Jacana” (or) “Kyar-Bet-Nin Nghet” also a migratory bird gliding gracefully. More of the flying specimen will be seen in Part-5.

Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi Lake ( Part-V )

In this part, you will find us returning from “Chaung-Wa” village back to Indawgyi lake. We were lucky to see more migratory and resident birds unexpectedly. This is “Brahminy Kite” a resident bird known as “Suun-gaung-phyu” in Myanmar. Their other habitats are- Tanintharyi division and delta region in southern part of the country. Next we saw:- -“Asian Open Bill” or Kha yu tote nghet” from South Asian; -together with “Purple Heron” or ; “Nga hit nghet” from South East Asia, -and more “Purple “Swamphens” and “Egrets”. Regarding climatic conditions, the annual rainfall here varies from (120-140) inches and the average temperature is about (23.5) degrees centigrade, while the relative humidity level is around 85 to 92%. -Here are “Ruddy Shelducks” or “Hinthar” forum Central Asia, usually always found in couples, and -“Common Pochards” from Mongolia and west part of Central Asia. -Surprisingly a large group comprising- “Spot-Billed Pelicans” or “Nghet Kyi Wun Bo” and “Bar Headed Goose” or “Bear Ngan Gaung Gyar” were also there. Now, let us listen to the natural sounds they make in their various movements and this is how the “Spot-Billed Pelican” looks like at close range and the way they take off ! -We also saw “Common Moorhen” or “Yay Kyet Don” from Central Mongolia, -“Common Coot” also a migratory bird, -“Common Pochards” from Mongolia and west part of Central Asia,. -cute little “Black Winged Stilts or “Daung-Lan-Chyay-Dauk-Nghet”, also a migratory specie with their sweet sounds, -and “Little Cormorant”or “Din-Gyi” from southern areas between Indonesia and Australia. Now, let us look at the vegetation which attracts birds and fish. This area is rich in plant diversity. Although it covers only 2% of Kachin State, you will find about (500) species of vascular plants.

-Here are more “Common Moorhen” or Yay Kyet done” from Central Mongolia; -“Oriental Darter” or “U Pan”, resident bird of South East Asia; “ Purple Heron” or “ Nga Hit Nghet” also from South East Asia were also found. Here, I may mention that “Migration”requires many special ingredients. For instance, a common phenomenon among migratory water birds, is the tendency for the same kind of bird to stop at the same place, and use the same wet land as a non-breading site each year. This is thought to be related to the better chances of survival associated with knowing a habitat well :-

“Where the good food is; where the safe roots are; and the type of predators present, and ways of avoiding them”. Hence, Ministry of Forestry designated Indawgyi lake as “Indawgyi Wet Land Bird Sanctuary” in 1999. Its total area is almost (300) square miles, and currently, “13 ” species have keen declared as seasonally protected by the Ministry of Forestry, Government of the Union of Myanmar. The conclusion part regarding “Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi” will follow in Part-6.

Unique Biodiversity of Indawgyi Lake ( Part-VI )

This is the concluding part of the series on Indawgyi lake. On our way back from “ Chaung-Wa” village, we learned the importance of the existing “Aquatic plants”, and “Reed beds” along the stream. “Aquatic plants” composed of “Reed bed Ecosystem”, are the main food resource for many species of migratory birds. For instance, you can see that the surrounding environment is ideal with good feeding, resting and nesting sites, and rich diversity of microhabitants like:- mud-dwelling small invertebrates are also available for migratory birds. Most of the fish-eating migratory birds do moulting, and even rare species do breeding on Reed bed vegetation. At “Chaung-Wa” area, “Reed bed Ecosystem” is transitionally changed into “Rangeland Ecotype”, and they are still in ecologically sound condition.

Reed bed and Rangeland Ecosystem constitute an important habitat as wintering place for fish and birds’ lives. They prevent shore erosion and also enhance water purification function. According to the International Convention on “Migratory Birds Conservation”, “Migration is an expensive way of life which requires very energetic feeding”. Thus, Reed bed Ecosystem is required for protecting this excellent landscape and habitat for fish and birds. It is the community of emerged and submerged hygrophytic and hydrophytic flora. Reeds are dominant species and can be found along the shoreline of the lower part of Indawgyi lake. It was late in the afternoon when we arrived back at the big lake. According to the “Bio Unit Zoning” of protected area system of Myanmar, “Indawgyi Wetland Bird Sanctuary”, is located in Myanmar dry zone, and serves as a comparison and contrast between the ‘3’ distant phytogeographical region wise namely:- “Indo- Malaysian flora and fauna; Sino Himalayan flora and fauna; and Assam flora and fauna. Precipitation is also high in this area, and distributed through out the year. Rainfall average is between ( 100-130 ) inches per year, and enjoys sub-tropical monsoon and sub-tropical mountain climate. Hence, the warm humid summer and cold winter encourages the very luxuriant species composition. Moreover, the lake serves as the largest water resource in “Mokaung” and “Mohnyin” townships. After spending the night in “Lonton”, we visited another village named “Hepu” on the east side of the lake.

The area west of lake Indawgyi can generally be mentioned as the tectonically emplaced bodies of mafic and altered ultramafic rocks and their metamorphic equivalents, and well deformed miocene classic sedimentary rock in the east.

Majority of the villages located in Indawgyi are main source of wild rice species. This rudimentary type of wild rice and their ancestors such as:- “Oriza officinales; Oriza rufipogan; and Oriza granulator” thrives well. The trace of these progenitor varieties indicated that Indawgyi and its surrounding areas which include:- “Namp Yin Kha” valley; Mokaung plane; and Myitkyina plane, are thought to be the origin of wild rice domestication. Needless to say, this lake plays a major role in “Socio Economical development; Ecological balance, and Environmental stability of Kachin State”. To refresh your memory, Indawgyi lake is located in Mohnyin township, south west part of Kachin State. It is not only the largest lake in South East Asia, but also the one and only Tectonic lake of Myanmar. Furthermore, it is being recognized as one of the oldest lake in the world comparable with “Lake Baikal” of Russia, and “Lake Biwa” of Japan. The long history of isolation from other water bodies, is suggested by the lake which is rather rich for are Inland lake, containing about ( 200 ) species of fish diversity, including some paleo endemic species of marine and mountain habitats. As such, fishing with explosives (or) new introduction of exotic fish, which begets the long term impacts on local fish production are prohibited with the view to maintain a sustainable resource management in this “Gene-Rich Geographical Antiquary”. It is “A Unique Bio-Cultural Region”, which is a “Mosaic”, in terms of flora and fauna ecosystem and cultural diversity, and also where oceanic fauna can still be found in this “Paradise for Ithyologists”.